Although we could have spent more days – if not months – in tiny laid-back Avlemonas, we were keen to refuel and continue our journey East to make it in time for my Yoga Retreat to Turkey. Thus, after a day of soaking in the lush relaxedness of this Greek summer place, we had a sweet hour of late after-noon sail to Diakofti – the island’s main ferry port. It counts a proud fifty houses (if at all) and all in all probably five beach tavernas, so hustle bustle is really not the way to describe it. Suited us perfectly, although docking onto a mini-spot near the ferry key with 20 knots and more in gusts of the highland wasn’t exactly my idea of fun. Anyway, we took on the fuel we could with the little cash we had left – no ATM on the island… (imagine, you don’t need Chagos to feel remote!) and before too long the Port Police kicked us out. Typical Greek style it was all good until the Ferry was ten seconds of the dock and ½ metre away from our stern. That’s when the Port Captain and his helpers (latest girlfriend, my guess?) rush over screaming something that sounds pretty close and unequivocally LEAVE NOW!

Pablo had just gone to the ferry office to find out when the ferries were arriving and if we would be on the way. Port guy looks at me: Where’s the Captain? ‘I’m the Captain.’ No, I mean the real Captain… Oh blessed be macho-landia! Once ‘real captain’, ia hubby was back on board, we through of our lines just in time to avoid being squashed by the ferry and its massive bow lines. Memories of last year coming back. Greek means either super relaxed, or super stressed – and that can change from one second to the next with no prior warning signs. As I’m writing this, we are back at sea – much more relaxed here, somehow, than on land. Even the boys seem more chilled out. No Port Police shouting at you, no ferry almost squashing your yacht as if it was a paper-plane, not so many things to do and run and have to get in touch withs etc. Just more being . More and more I feel at one with my birthday-sake/colleague, Bernard Moitessier. The only one who manages to describe what I feel when out here – closest to ‘at home’ I ever have.
Next stop Santorini – or wherever else the wind blow us. Beautiful 15 knots from 120 degrees. My watch is soon over and I enjoy gazing into the millions of stars.