Paradise turned into nightmare as 35 plus knots of wind sweep through. Light-weight production boats are being swayed like plastic cups in a whirlpool. Our solid Moody seems like a rock compared to them. Charter skippers are freaking out. It’s not nice, but no emergency situation either. The one other live-aboard leaves the scene. Not a bad decision given that minutes later a lazy line breaks… After two hours of panic – yet calm on board Happy Dancer – it’s all over and all the tourists are getting wasted in the bar. How far removed we feel from their world.

The only thing the cranky owner, aka Babis, has to say about his broken, badly serviced mooring lines – all good, nothing happened. And what does he have to say to the promised water as we are keen to fill up a completely empty tank before we leave this place, never to be back again? Forgot to pay the bills, no water today. No Babis for us in the future. Thankful we’ve got a water-maker.

Lovely bay, but if you get here, do yourself a favour, moor at one of the free town quays, either north or south, obligation free eat at one of the lovely tavernas up in the cute village, enjoy a nice swim and save yourself form the whistling moods on the washing machine pontoon.